Water Science and Engineering 2014, 7(3) 306-318 DOI:   doi:10.3882/j.issn.1674-2370.2014.03.006  ISSN: 1674-2370 CN: 32-1785/TV

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wave-induced setup
wave-induced setdown
Boussinesq model
wave breaking
JIWEI -yin
ZHILI -zou
Article by Ke-Zhao,.F
Article by Jiwei,.Y
Article by Zhili,.Z
Article by Jiawen,.S

Revisiting study on Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation over various reef profiles

Ke-zhao FANG*1, 2, Ji-wei YIN3, Zhong-bo LIU1, Jia-wen SUN2, Zhi-li ZOU1

1. State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, P. R. China
2. National Marine Environment Monitoring Center, State Oceanic Administration, Dalian 116023, P. R. China
3. Heilongjiang Province Navigation Investigation and Design Institute, Harbin 150001, P. R. China


    To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional (1D) Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties (including dispersion and shoaling) are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.

Keywords wave-induced setup   wave-induced setdown   Boussinesq model   wave breaking   reef  
Received 2013-01-04 Revised 2013-07-16 Online: 2014-07-25 
DOI: doi:10.3882/j.issn.1674-2370.2014.03.006
This work was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grants No. 51009018 and 51079024) and the National Marine Environment Monitoring Center, State Oceanic Administration, P. R. China (Grant No. 210206).
Corresponding Authors: Ke-zhao FANG
Email: kfang@dlut.edu.cn
About author:

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