Volume 15 Issue 4
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David A. Chin. 2022: Surf-zone dynamics derived from basin-scale experiments. Water Science and Engineering, 15(4): 273-284. doi: 10.1016/j.wse.2022.08.003
Citation: David A. Chin. 2022: Surf-zone dynamics derived from basin-scale experiments. Water Science and Engineering, 15(4): 273-284. doi: 10.1016/j.wse.2022.08.003

Surf-zone dynamics derived from basin-scale experiments

doi: 10.1016/j.wse.2022.08.003
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  • Corresponding author:

    David A. Chin, E-mail: dchin@miami.edu

  • Received Date: 2022-04-07
  • Accepted Date: 2022-08-10
  • Rev Recd Date: 2022-07-24
  • Available Online: 2022-11-04
  • Surf-zone hydrodynamics forced by oblique wave shoaling and breaking on beach slopes were investigated. The results showed that in wavebasin experiments with incident angles in the range of 15°-30°, wave breaking was initiated at a breaker coefficient of around 0.67, which was significantly less than that predicted from empirical relations based on normally incident waves for a given beach slope and deep-water wave steepness. The measurements also showed that subsequent saturated breaking occurred at a breaker coefficient of around 0.47 that was independent of beach slope in the range of 1:10 to 1:100. This result is likely applicable to both oblique and normally incident waves. It is shown that the measured wave heights and longshore velocity profiles in wave-basin studies can be reasonably well predicted by theory with proper adjustments to the process parameters. Best-match formulations were identified for quantifying bottom friction, eddy viscosity, and energy loss due to surface rollers.

     

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